Michael Portillo embarks on a new railway journey around the coast of the east of England. He begins in the Thames estuary, where creeks separate Canvey Island from the mainland and generations of Essex men and women have struggled to stay on dry land. From Benfleet, Michael heads for the tidal mud flats and salt marshes of the Dengie National Nature Reserve, where he discovers one of the oldest Christian churches in England, the chapel of St Peter's on the Wall, built in 654. The picturesque seaside town of Walton-on-the-Naze is Michael's next stop, where he is charmed by the colourful beach huts lining the seafront. Walking on Walton's impressive pier, Michael meets a group of anglers waiting for a bite. He enjoys a tale of a fish that got away and a recipe for local bass. His last stop on this leg is Wrabness, where Michael visits the extraordinary House for Essex, a collaboration between Essex artist Grayson Perry and Essex architect Charles Holland.