Michael Portillo begins this leg of his Scottish railway journey in the beautiful medieval city of Stirling. Michael learns it was a strategic city, situated where the Lowlands meet the Highlands at the lowest bridging point of the River Forth. At a towering monument overlooking the river, Michael hears how, in 1297, William Wallace inflicted a shocking defeat on the English army at Stirling Bridge, and he learns of Edward I's brutal revenge in 1305. Michael is struck by the emotional power these events retain seven centuries later. Travelling across country to the River Tay, Michael discovers the fair city of Perth, the historic crowning place of the kings of Scotland. At Scone Palace, now the seat of the Earls of Mansfield, Michael meets William Murray, Viscount Stormont, who is the eldest son of the current Earl, to learn about the Stone of Scone, its seizure and return — ultimately — by the English. As evening draws in, Michael heads for the banks of the Tay for a magical sunset canoe trip to spot beavers, who are now thriving here once again. Kirkcaldy is Michael's next stop, a station he knows well, having travelled here often to visit his Scottish grandparents in the town. Revisiting the beach where he played with his brothers, Michael meets a photographer who kindly takes a snap for the family album. Tracking along the northern shores of the Firth of Forth, Michael admires the picturesque fishing villages. At St Monan's, he discovers the old industry o salt-making is being revived, and it tastes good!